Skiing in Chamonix

Chamonix Ski & Snowboard Guide

Chamonix is quite unlike any other ski resort you may have been to. Very much the birthplace of Alpine sports in France, the area just keeps giving and giving. Skiers return relentlessly year after year in their search for adventure.

Chamonix is a little bit haphazard, in the most charming way possible. It’s made up of four distinct areas linked by buses that are free with your ski pass. Many of the lifts are old, and it also lacks the finesse of neighbouring resorts. But this ruggedness, coupled with the incredible terrain, just makes people keep coming back for more.

The skiing

Chamonix caters for skiers of all levels, but you’ll get more and more out of it the stronger you get. There are ten beginner zones across the valley. So if you’re just finding your ski legs, you will be well catered for. There are 4 distinct ski areas that make up Chamonix, comprising 169 km of on-piste skiing and far more off-piste. The 2026/27 press kit counts 91 runs: 13% beginner, 36% intermediate, 37% advanced and 14% expert. In fact, that’s what Chamonix is best at – extreme, demanding, amazing freeride terrain, and tons of it. On its day the place boasts some of the world’s best freeriding, no question.

Of course, no discussion about Chamonix would be complete without mentioning the world-renowned Aiguille du Midi and the Vallée Blanche. The first is the pinnacle of rock that dominates the valley. You reach it by what was the world’s highest cable car when it opened in 1955. The second is the most famous off-piste skiing experience in the world. The Vallée Blanche isn’t reserved for experts only. In fact, it can safely be navigated (with a guide) by a decent intermediate who can ski red runs and is fit. Allow 4–5 hours, and expect a roped walk down the arête in crampons before you start skiing. There are 4 main descents of the Vallée Blanche with differing levels of difficulty. So even a very advanced boarder should get a decent bang out of it.

The ski areas that make up Chamonix are incredibly varied in themselves from the pretty chill Brévent-Flégère area to very non-chill Les Grands Montets. Le Brévent has a freestyle area with 5 rails and a giant airbag. But if freestyle is your thing, there are definitely better French Alps ski resorts for you.

Grands Montets in 2026/27

The Grands Montets is Chamonix’s most serious ski area, and this winter it gets a big upgrade. A new 10-seat gondola from Argentière to Lognan opens for the 2026 Christmas holidays. There’s a new beginner zone too. However, the summit at 3,275 m still has no lift. Its new lift is due for winter 2027/28, so until then the top is for ski touring only.

So this winter, the highest lift-served pistes start at about 2,800 m, at the top of the Grands Montets. The Aiguille du Midi cable car goes higher, to 3,842 m, but it serves no pistes.

Snowboarding in Chamonix

Snowboarding in Chamonix offers pretty much limitless opportunities, with 169 km of pistes and vast backcountry terrain to explore. The terrain is also steep compared to other big-name resorts. The equivalent of a blue run in Chamonix could well be labelled a black elsewhere.

Beginners: if you’re in Chamonix to learn to snowboard, head to Le Tour. The Charamillon gondola takes you up to wide open pistes, with space to come down at your own pace. Back down the valley, Les Houches is also great nonthreatening terrain for learners.

Intermediates: once you’re confidently linking your turns and holding your edge on steeper terrain, hit the sunny Brévent-Flégère area.

Advanced riders: if you wake up to a powder day, make a beeline for La Flégère. You’ll find some awesome easy access off-piste snowboarding there. Take the Index chairlift to access Combe Lachenal. Once an off-piste route, it’s now a wide red run with about 700 m of vertical descent. The same lift also serves Combe des Crochues, at the far left of La Flégère, with its wide open powder fields.

The traverse of the Col de la Glière is an awesome intro to the world of splitboarding. You can also bootpack the entire route so you don’t necessarily need a splitboard to do it. Start from the top of the Cornu chairlift at Le Brévent. Then turn left and shuffle 50 m to the start of the boot-pack/skin track. Finally, from the Col de la Glière you’ll ride down into the Lachenal Bowl. Ride the off-piste routes with a guide.

Freestyle is the weak spot, so park riders should compare other snowboarding resorts in the French Alps.

Where to stay

There is accommodation to suit every taste in Chamonix. Be careful to think about what you want from your holiday before you pick your accommodation. Chamonix isn’t the most accessible of resorts, and having a car can be a God-send. If you’re looking for serious après and early access to the slopes, go for Chamonix centre. But for something a bit more relaxing and quiet, one of the nearby villages may be more your thing. Wherever you stay, try if possible to be near a bus stop.

Where to eat

For serious gourmet eats check out Atmosphère for its Michelin Guide-listed food, fabulous views and delightful interior. On the more relaxed end of the spectrum Micro Brasserie de Chamonix (MBC) does great burgers served with their own home brewed beers.

Après ski

MBC is also a great place to start your evening’s après (if you’re so inclined) after which you might head to Monkey Bar for some more live music. Then, if you’ve still got the energy, you might mosey on over to Le Cabanon on Rue des Moulins to finish off the debauchery. Reviewers describe a tiny bar with a DJ, a warm welcome, good-value happy-hour drinks and hot dogs late into the night. If you prefer a quiet and sophisticated tipple, check out ChaChaCha, a wine bar on Avenue Ravanel le Rouge, for slightly more sensible après.

For more bars, restaurants and clubs, see our Chamonix après-ski guide. And if you come back in summer, try mountain biking in Chamonix or the rest of our Chamonix activities guide.